Thread-cutting mechanism for sewing-machines.



D. MILLS. THREAD CUTTING MEOHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

D. MILLS.

\ THREAD CUTTING MEGIIANISM EON SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23`y 1902.

1,016,226. Patented 13.11.30, 1912.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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THREAD CUTTING MBGHANISM Pon SEWING' MACHINES. I APPLIATION FILED HAY23, 1 902. l

Patented Jan 30, 1912.

`Witnessesr 10 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

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D. MILLS..

THBEADOUTTING MEGHANISM FOB, SEWING MACHINES. APPLIOATIOI IILEDMAY 23,1902.

1,016,226. Patented. Ja,-1L.3o, 1912 10 SHSETB-SHEET 4.

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Y D. MILLS. I THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23. 1902. l 1,01 6,226. Patented Jan. so, 1912.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

Witn essres: n i fzwentar:

l ttor/uy y 1)..MILLS.v THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISMI'OR SEWING MAGHINES..

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23,v 1902..

. 91M 6. w. ,m .m m B m m n m IHAR w Wll@ y 6. y Mw 2 e 2 l 6, 0, .L 1 w@0% D. MILLS. THREAD CUTTING MECHANISNI POB. SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY Z3, 1902. l

1,016,226. I Patenea Jan. 30, 1912.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 7.

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www@ l iter/2W D. MILLS. THREAD G UTTINGMBOHANISM Pon SEWING MACHINES.APPLICATION FILED MAY 23, 1902.

1,016,226, Patented Jan. 30,1912' 10 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

D. MILLS. THREAD CUTTING MEGHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23, 1902.

Patented Jan. 30, 1912.

1o SHEETS-SHEET 9.

EN, Rmx a @x A TTOHNEY WITNESSES:

-D. MILLS. THREAD GUTTING MEGHANISM PQR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 23. 1902.

Patented @11.30, 1912.

10 SHEETS-SHEET 10.

UNITED STATES PATENT oEEIcE.

DANIEL MILLS, 0F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIG'NOR TO STANDARD SEW-ING MACHINE COMPANY, 0F CLEVELAND, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

THREAD-CUTTING MECHANISM FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application led May 23, 1902. Serial No. 108,667. i

To. all whom t may concern.' Be it known that I, DANIEL M1LLs, a citizenof the United States, residing at Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, haveinvented new which the desired number of stitches are` sewed at onepoint in the work, as at a button or buttonhole, and the machine thenstopped and the Work shifted before reing in this manner, as forexample, in a but- Lton-sewing machine, which is the type of machineshown in the drawings of thisA application to illustrate my invention, abutton is sewed to the fabric, the machine stopped, and the work thendrawn through the machine to locate the fabric atanother point at whichanother button maybe sewed to the same. In such machines as heretoforeconstructed the needle andthe bobbin threads are usually both pulled ordrawn along with the fabric as the latter is shifted, and there isconsequentlymuch waste of thread thereby caused, as the thread iscontinuous, spanning the space from button to button, and is usually cutby the operator after the sewing on of the buttons is completed. Thiscutting operation of course causes a considerable loss of time inaddition to the waste of thread.

The principal objectv of my invention is to avoid the waste of threadand loss of time incident to the use of this type of sewing machine, andI accomplish this by cutting the needle and bobbin threads after thesewing mechanism has made the desired 'number of stitches at a givenpoint and has been automatically stopped, this cutting of the threadsbeing performed by a suitable thread-cutter brought into action beforethe work is shifted to a new position, andpreferably taking placesimultaneously with the operation of theparts in releasing the workv byits holder or presser. Before this cutting operation takes place it isnecessary that a sufficient length or quantity of thread be pulled fromthe needle and bobbin thread supplies to allow for the proper formation`Patenwl Jan..3o,19`12.

of the first stitch when the machine is restarted, and to do this, Iprovide means for operating tothis end whlch are preferablyautomatically broughtinto action onl dur'- ing the formation of the laststitch ofy a determined number, such means, in the case of the needlethread, operating to receive and detain thel last loop cast oil' by thelooper in a manner wherebythe usual take-up will be caused to draw fromthe needleV thread supply the additional length or quantlty required.Owing to the variation in the normal mode of pulling off and taking upthe thread, which results from the pulling off of the eXtra quantity ofneedle thread durling the formation of the last stitch toleave a cut endof considerable length, I also prov vide, in connection with means fornormally tensioning said thread 1n the ordinary manner, means forreleasing the tension at the v ,properpoint when this eXtra length ofthe needle thread is being pulled ol, the parts being sonorganized as to'cause the needle thread to be' put under tension again just before thestopping of the machine, in order.

that the thread may be located with precision, held taut, andcut'readily.

Another important object of the invention is to provide for lthepositive and automatic interlocking of the needle and bobbin threads assoon as the machine is re-started, and I accomplish this, and preventloss of time, which would result if the operator were obliged to locateand grasp the cut end of the needle thread, by providing an'automaticgripping device which will engage and holdthe loose end of the needlethread loop` so as to insure its positive interlocking with the bobbinthread and form a stitch immediately after theemachine has re-started.

Other objects and advantages ofthe invention `,not hereinbefore referredto, but which willL be hereinafter described, are illltistlated in theaccompanying drawings, in w 1c Figurel is a front elevation, partly insection, of 'a Standard button-sewing machine having my inventionapplied thereto. Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same,

with parts broken away to illustrate the construction more clearly. Fig.3 is a'plan of the same. Fig. 4 is an under side view of the same, witha part of the switch-cam broken away. Fig. 5 is -an end elevation of themachine viewed from `theleft in Fig. 31. Fig.- 6i's a vertical section'of the same, the section being taken substantially'on the line thebed-plate vand certain adjacent parts showing the button-holding andother devices. j Fig. 8 is an'enlarged sectional. front v elevationillustrating .the o ration of the variousparts of the stitchormingmechanism and a thread-gripper'coperative therewith. Figs. 9 and 10 areenlarged sectional end elevations of the stitch-forming devices and of-aloop-detainer andl spreader 'cooperative therewith', showin therespective ositionsof 's aid-detainer 'an spreader when 1t is out of.action and when in its Aoperative position. Figa 11and 12 are enlargedsec'- tional plans illustrating the bobbin-thread Vpull-ofi' andthecutting device at different points inftheir paths of action. Figs.y13

l and 714 are perspectivelviews illustrating .the manner in which thebobbin-threadis pulled of and both threads placed inputting position'while the needle thread loop is spread by the combined thread detainerand spreader.' Figs. 15 and 16 are perspective views illustratindifferent positions of a .thread-gripper or ,gripping and .holding theAcut, end ofthe needle thread. Fig .-17

`is an enlarged sectional'detail through line 17e-17- of Fig. V14,illustratin the positions of the bobbin-thread pull-o andcutter at thetime the cutting operation takes place.

lSimilar characters designate like all the figures .of the drawin 'V- Insaid drawings, I have illustrated one well-known construction .and arefor contype. of sewing machine, in lwhich the stitchforminlg mechanismis adapted to be. automatica mined number of stitches, the machine shownbeing abutton-sewing machine of the" well-known Standard sewing machine.

type, although my invention is equally appllcable to othersewingmachinesfor other` purposes than sewing onlbuttons. Many of the parts ofthemachine illustrated are of venience of illustration substantially asfound insa'id Standard sewing machine, some of saidv parts being abed-plate 1, an overhangiigjann 2, an upper drlving shaft 3 suppor inbearings 1n said arm 2, a

. vertically-reciprocating needle-bar 4 oper- I A' shaft 6 supported insuitable bearings' ated from the driving shaft 3,' a rotary4 shuttle orloope'r- -5, a shuttle-driving on 'the under side of the bed-plate andolperated from the upper shaft 3 by sultab e connections, a. take-updevice 7,

parte y stopped after making a ldeteroperated in the usual manner fromthe upper presser-bar. between a pair lof nuts `10-10, 4

said button-holder having the usual buttongripping jaws 13-.13, betweenwhich a vbutton b may be firmly held. v

The button-holder may be vibrated back and forth t0 present first oneand then an-l /other of a' pair of holes in y the button in' aj positionto be entered by the needle in the following manner. The presser-bar, to

which the`button-holder. is secured', is"piv lotally mounted at its endin the arm of the machine and is vibrated back and forth in a directiontransverse to the bed-plate by the usual operating connections employed.in this machine, andas said presser-bar is vibrated, the button-holder,and the button carried thereby, are also moved hackV and forth topresent-a pair of holes in the'button to the needlealternately.V Thebutton-holder is also pivoted to swing relatively to the' presser-barabout the pivot 12 for the purpose of presenting th'e second pair ofholes in the button in position to be entered-by .A

the needle. This swinging movement may be communicated to thebutton-holder--by a Vconnef'zting-rod 28 adjustably secured to the'rocker-arm or lever-arm 27 attached to the 'upper en d of a shortvertical shaft 25 extendig throughthe bed-plate and working ,inI berings. at opposite sides thereof, and is derived from a rotaryswitch-cam 24 .through another Aarm 29,- which latter is secured to thelower end of the shaft 2 5' and provided with a' pin which works in thegroove 24", see dotted' lines, Fig. y3, of said cam and causes theshifting of the connecting-rod 28 and the buttonholder at the propertimef This cam is geared iirectly Worm gearing.

Any suita le automatic stop-mechanism may be employed for stopping themachine after makingv a predetermined number of stitches, a desirableform being thatshown and described in myY prior vPatent No. 635,267,dated October 17, 1899. In the present case, as in said patent, the`shaft 3 has the usual hand-wheel or pulley 34 fast thereon and a drivingor loose pulley 35 to the shaft 6 and driven therefrom by adapted to beclutched to, and unclutched from, said fast pulley 34. vFor the purposeof coupling these pulleys an elbow-lever 36 is pivoted on a bracket-arm37, and one end of this elbow-lever extends into an opening in avertically operating slide-bar 39 and is adapted to be actuated thereby.The other or outer end of said elbow-lever extends into position toactuate a sliding pin 40 controlling the clutch movement of the pulley35.' At its lower end the said slide-bar 39 is connected by a link 42 to,a lever 43, one end of which` latter is pivoted on a lug-44, while theopposite end of said lever is bifurcated and embraces 'a pin projectingfrom a rock-arm 45 carried by a rockshaft 46 suitably supported belowthe bedplate, said rock-shaft having near its forward end'another arm48, preferably a cam arm, for controlling the operation of a loopdetainer and spreader hereinafter to be de- `scribed. This shaft 46 isrocked in the proper direction whenever it is desired to couple thepulleys 34 and 35, and when the pulleys are clutched together theelbowlever 36 and the slide-bar 39 are held in .position to effect suchclutching by la suit-able latch, such as the horizontally actingAspring-pressed slide-latch 49, engaging with the said slide-bar. .Bywithdrawing the slide-latch 49 from engagement with the slide-bar 39`the latter will be automatically .elevated and the other parts returnedto a position to release the loose pulley 35 from the fast pulley 34, aspring 54 being employed to effect this return movement. The fast pulleyhas two stop-rings 57 and 58 yieldlngly connected therewith, in aInanner as fullydisclosed in my said prior patent. These stop rings areeach provided with a projecting lip or stop-face, one of which, that onthe ring 58, being adapted to strike vthe upper end of the slide-bar 39when the latter is released by the .sli-delatch and forced upward by thespring 54, so as to stop rotation of the pulley in one direction, whilethe ring 57 may have aslight over rotation due to the momentum oftheconnected operating parts, in which event it will be returned to thenormal stopl'. ping point by a spring (not shown) and v stopped in theproper position by the engagement of its aforesaid stop-face withastop-lever 63, this stop-lever having an eX- tension 64 in contact withthe under side' of the lower arm of the elbow-lever '36, against whichlatter it is normally held a spring (not shown.) so as to be movabletherewith. Hence when the slide-bar 39 is raised into operative positionto effect the stopping of the machine, the stop-lever'63 riseswith itinto its operative position, and when the slide-bar is moved downward topermit the re-starting of the machine, it positively carries the saidstop-lever with it.l

- The stop-mechanism is intended tobe controlled automatically, and Ihave shown herein a releasing-bar pivoted to the lever-arm 27 and havinga hooked rear end.

for engaging and releasing an elbow-lever 74 and also having a cam facefor shift-ing the position of the hooked end of said bar. The hooked endof the bar 70 does not operate the lever 74 to automatically stop the'tion is automatically stopped by t-he partsy previously described.

In myvimproved machine the automatic stop mechanism is intended tocontrol the throwing into action of a device for engaging with anddetaining t-he 'last loop cast off by the shuttle in a determined numberof stitches and for spreading said loop in a desired position to permitthe cutting of one side thereof without cutting the other. This device Iterm a loop-detainer or loop-detainer and spreader. mally held out ofaction and is only brought into operation just prior to the casting offof the last loop by the shuttle prior to the automatic stopping of themachine. I employ in the present instance an oscillatory loop-detainer,designated generally by 75, which comprises a swinging arm of peculiarconstruction secured to the forward end of a shortrock-shaft 70 which isjournaled in bearings below the main sha-ft 6 and having at its rear endanother' rock-arm 7l carrying" an anti-friction roller 72, the latterbeing normally engagedl by the cam arm 48 of the rock-shaft 46 duringthe sewing` operation of the machine andheld thereby withtheloop-detainervin an inoperative position relative to the shut-tlc, asshown in Fig. 9. The

operations of the parts are so timed that the loop-detainer is notreleased by the cam-arm 48 until the last loop'of the series of stitchesis cast olf by the hook of the shuttle 5, and

this movement of the arm 48 will take place just before the slide-bar 39is released by Said device is northe slide-latch 49, as 'hereinbeforedescribed.

The loop detainer land spreader preferably has a hook 76 forming arecess 747 in which the needle-threaddoop may be received, and Isaiddetainer may also have a spreader, prefer'ably in the form of a lateralwing-or flange 78, for deflecting the two sides of the loop away from acommon path and spreading them a considerable distance apart, the objectof this being to enable the cutter hereafter described to cut one sideofthe loop thread without severing the other. The

hooked portion of the loop detainer preferably forms a guide for theloop, as shown .in Fig. 10, and it may be stopped in its .clearly shownin Figs. 13 and 14.' Owing to the fact thatthis last loop of a series isdetained and not drawn up into the work by the take-up, it is necessaryto provide means for releasing the tension on the needle-thread by thetime the loop reaches the position shown in Fig. 10.

Any ordinary type of tension device, such as 85, which in this casecomprises two plates or disks held together by spring pressure, may beemployed for tensioning the thread, and in connection therewith atension-releasing-device may be used which will operate immediatelyafter the slack in the loop,

shown in Fig. 10, is taken up by the take-up device 7. In order toaccomplish this release of the tension the *disks of the tension device85 are preferably spread apart by the wedge-shape end 86 of a longtension-releasing lever 87 pivoted on the side of the overhanging arm 2.This lever has at its rear end a pivotal connection with a link 88, thelower end of which in turn is pivoted to a shiftable intermediate orplate 89, pivoted at 90 ona stud on the framework and havingv near itslower end a slot.in which works a pin 92, secured to the slide-bar 39(see Figs. 1 and 6). At its upper end said plate has an anti-frictionroll 93, which,

when the pin 92 holds the plate in its lower-A most position, isnormally held out of the path of a cam 94-in fixed relation with theupper shaft 3. When the slide-bar'39 is released and rises, however, thepin 92 permits the roll 93 to be carried by a spring 94 into operativerelation with the circular face of the cam 94, and at the same time saidpin permits the lever 87 and its wedge-shaped end 86 to move to theposition shown in Fig. 1. The antifriction ,roll 93 prevents theseparation of the disks of the tension device until said rollis near thecenter of the fiattened .cam-face 94 of the cam 94, lwhen the Y wedge 86will be permitted to enter between and separate said disks long enoughto permit the take-up device 7 -to move upward a considerable distance'and pull oil' thread from the spool. Before the take-up reaches thelimit of its upward movement, however, the roll 93 should ride away fromthe center of the attened cam-face 94 to cause the vwithdrawal of thewedge 86 and the re-tensioning of the needle thread, the movements ofthe parts being so timed and of such extent that after the re-tensioningof the thread the take-up 7 will rise a short distance, usually to thelimit of its upward movement, and put the thread of the last loop cast.off by the shuttle under its normal tension to hold such thread tautduring the cutting thereof.

In all of the principal views the mechanism is shown with the parts inthe positions they occupy immediately after the machine has been brought`toa stop by the action ,of the stop mechanism. All of the parts are nowin position' to permit the cutting of the needle and bobbin threads andthe release of the work from the button-holder. In the foregoingdescription I have set forth the manner in which the needle thread loopis held bythe loop-detainer, andthus kept again automatically. It isalso important to leave a suiiicient length of thread at the "cut end ofthe bobbin thread -for the same purpose. For this reason Imake use of asuitable bobbin-thread deflector or detainer in the form of a pull-oliwhich is coperative with the needle-thread deflector, or combineddetainer and spreader, said pull-olf for the bobbin-thread beingpreferably associated, and movable, directly with a thread-cutter,preferably so constructed as to be capable of severing both theneedle-thread and the bobbin-thread.

-In this construction (see Figs. 11-14 in-A clusive) the bobbin-threadpull-oli' 100 is pivoted at'a suitable fixed point 100a on the underside oft-he throat-plate and at its working end is so shaped as to formanotch or recess 101, constituting the pulloii' proper, the path ofmovement of this linger being such as to cause the walls of the recess101v to engage the bobbin-thread 102 when'a working stroke is impartedto such finger, and to carry such thread toward the rear ofthe machineand form a blght or loop by pulling olf an additional quantity lofthread from the bobbin, and

thereby provide a s uiicient amount of thread `to form an end ofconsiderable length when such thread is cut.

Any suitable form of thread-cutting device may coperate with the partsjust described to` sever the needle and bobbin threads. In this, case amovable shear or blade 105 is secured to the pull-olf device 100 with'the cutting edge thereof extending across, and immediately in advanceof, the back wall'of a s lot in the pull-off finger, which slot isindicated at 106, a coperating fixed shear or knife-edge 106', which inthis casefis the edge of a plate 1061 secured to the under side o f thethroat-plate, being located in the path of the movable shear 105,against which fixed shear edge the bobbin-thread 102 and one side 107 ofthe loop formed in the 'needle-thread may be cut. The two sides 107 andI108 of the loop are kept apart by the spreader 78, as shownA in Fig.13, and as the pull-off device 100 moves to the position shown in Figs.12 and 14, 'it receives the bobbin-thread in the recess 101 and pullsolf an extra quantity of thread from the bobbin. During this movement ofthe pull-off device 100 the side 107 of the 'loop inthe needlethreadenters the slot 106, but the other side 108 of the loop is held clear ofthe inner 15 edge 109 of the pull-off device 100 and does not enter. theslot 106. The side 108 of the loop is therefore out Aof the path of themovable'shea 105 and is not cut by it, and hence a long end dependsthrough the open- '20 ing in the throat-plate on the drawing up of theneedle, this end being of sufficient `length to permit the formation ofa loop on the next descent of the needle, the loose end of said threadbeing preferably gripped and held automatically after the hook of theshuttle begins to pull out such loop in the usual manner.

The parts just described for cutting the threads may be operated in anysuitable way, butr I prefer to organize them in such a .manner that theywill coperate with the presser-bar and presser-foot,which latter in'.,this'case is a part of the button-holder, this mode of organizing theparts being desirable' in order that the operator may cut the threadsand raise the button-holder from the work, into aposition where thebutton may be disengaged from the holder and the work shifted, by asingle operation. Here, the

40 angular bobbin-thread pull-off .has on its under side apivotedsquared guide 110, which works in' the forked end of a rock-lever 112,v

pivoted on the under side of the bed-plate and operated by along-connecting-rod or l oted to the lower end of a long guide-arm 114,pivoted near the rear end of the lforward side of the overhanging arm2,' a suitable spring 115 serving to return these parts to their normalpositions withthe cutter and the pull-ofLout of the path of the threads.Near its lower end a link 116 connects the long guide-arm 114 to a shortrock-arm 117 fastened to the forward end of a rock-shaft 118 whichpasses through and isjournaled in theheadof the machine near` thelower.v end thereof, and has' at the rear side of the machine` arock-arm 119, carrying a springpressed by-pass pawl 120 having .anoblique face the path of an anti-friction roll 121 on 4the rod 30bymeans of which latter the presser-bar may be raised 'on' .the depressionof a treadle (notvshown) bythe operator. .At 'its upper end theconnecting-rod 30l has a l slot 122 of considerable length, so astopropull-wire 113, the rear end of which is pivposition, in addition tothat which is shown at 125 for lowering the presser-bar and its lever. l

'After the threads have been cut and the 7 5 work shifted to a newposition the threadcutter and pull-olf may be returned to their normalpositions and the presser-bar and button-holder lowered again intoengagement with -the work. Thereupon, the machine may be started againby turning the rock-shaft 46 by a suitable connection with the rock-arm48, which will cause the elbowlever 36 to be operated and the pulley 35to be `clutched to the pulley 34 again, and at the 85 same time ,theslide-bar and the stop-lever will be withdrawn from engagement with. thelips on the stop-rings, and the intermediate or plate' v89 lowered tocarry the antifriction roll 93 away from the cam 94... kThis -90 machinethe construction and operation of 10.0 A the gripping means vshownherein will' now b`e-described. The switch-cam 24 hereinbe fore referredIto makes one complete rotation for each complete cycle of operations ofthe machine, and for this reasonsaid 'cam also -1"054 preferably has aperipheral cam face 130 controlling the operation of the grippingdevice. Inthis construction one arm-of an angle-lever, which arm -isdesignated by 131,

'has an anti-friction roll 132 in-contact with 110 the periphery of saidswitch-cam, and the other arm 133 of said angle-lever has a loosepin-and-slot connection` (formed by a long slot 133 and avpin 134) witha "slide 135 operating ina suitable way in the bed-plate and having atits forward end a gripping. finger 136 adapted to catch the rear side ofl the loop thrown out by the needle', as shown in Figi 15, and. grip thesame between it and theunder side ofthe'edge of the .opening 120.V 137in the throat-plate through which the needle passes, as shown in Fig;16, the gripping finger' preferably advancing and with-l drawing a shortdistance to alternately grip land release the thread atea'oh 'turn ofthe A1:25

shaft .6. The ,reason for this is that at the beginning of the sewingoperation the antifrictionvroll 132 rides down the cam-face and permitsthe slide 135, which is normally in an inoperative position, to beshift- 130 ed to an operative position, said "slide having 'in this'case a stud 140 depending therefrom and carrying an anti-friction roll141 normally out -of the path of a circular face-cam 142cm the shaft 6,this---roll being shifted,-

however, into engagement with said face by means of a suitable spring,such as 143, and held against saidface 142 at all points in the circuitthereof. Hence, the roll 141and' the 10 gripping nger 136 connectedtherewith.are

reciprocated back and forthat each stitch-t forming operation 4duringthe formation of the first few stitches, and this action continues untilthe switch-cam 24 `turns far enough to cause the roller 132 and itsanglelever to be shifted'again towithdraw vthe roll 141 awayrom thecam-face? 142 to its inoperative position. -As an important feature inthe operation of this vthread-gripping device, the latter is socontrolled by the peripheral cam-face of the switch-cam 24 as not tocome into operation until the second descent of the needle. This permitsthe loose always be located on the under 'sidev of the work.

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitchforming mechanismembodying a needle and a bobbin,"of an automatic stopmechanism, adetainer for the' needle'thread operative'to engage the thread beneaththe 40 work plate, controlling connections between said needle threaddetainer and said' stop mechanism, an independently controlled -detainer'for the bobbm"thread, fa-nd a. thread cutter coperative with saiddetainers.-

.45 2. Inga sewing machine, Vv,tho 'c11bination-v with stitch-formingmechanism 'embodying a needle anda bobbin, of an automatic stop-mechamsm, two inde erdently acting thread detainers for controllmg theneedle 'and bob-v 60 bin threads respectively, the needle threaddetalner being voperative to engage the thread beneath the work-plateand being controlled by said stop mechanism, and the bobbin threaddetaine bein operative subsequent to the stopping of te machine and,

- being manually controlled, anda thread cut` ter coperative withsaiddetainers.

3.. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formin mechanismembodying a needle and a bob in, of an automatic stop f v mechanism, aneedle thread deflector engaging the threadbeneath the work plate,controlling connectionsbetween said deiector .and sald 'stop mechanism,an independently controlled deiector for the bobbin thread,

deflectors.

work upon the iirst descent ofi the needle and ath-readcuttercoiiperative with said 'I 4. In. a sewing machine, the combinationwith Stitch-forming mechanism embodying' a needle and a bobbin, of anautomatic stop.

mechanism, twoindependently acting "thread defiectors for controllingIthe Vneedle and bobbin threads respectively, the needle lthreaddeflector being operative to engage the thread beneath the work-plateand-being controlledby said stop-mechanism, andthe bobbinthreaddeliector being operative subsequent to the stoppingofthe-'machine'and being manually controlled, and a thread cuttercoperative with said deliectors.

1 "5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism-v embodying a needle and a bobbin, of two'independently actingnormally inoperative thread detain' ers for controlling the needle'and'bobbin threadjrespectivel'y, the needle thread def tainer beingoperative prior to the stopping of the machine and the bobbin thread detainer being operative subsequent tothe stopping of the machine, anautomaticde` stop, .mechanism for tainer controlling throwing' theneedle Ythread detainer in to ac tion, anda thread` saiddetainers. a

.- 6. In a sewing machine, thecombination cutter coperative with withstitch-formingmechanism embodying a needle and a bobbin, of an automaticstop mechanism, a combined loop detamer and spreader and a bobbinthreaddetainer controlling the needle and bobbin threads re-l spectively, oneof said detainers being con'- trolled by said stop mechanism independentof the other, and a thread cutter co erative with said loop detainer andsprea er and said bobbin thread detainer.

7. In asewing machine,'-'the comb by said stop mechanism andautomatically vthrown into action thereby upon the vstopping of themachine, and a manually-controlled thread-cutter movablein the path of vv ationv with stitch-form`ing mechanism, of an automatic stopymechanism,a normally inoperative loop-detainer andspreader controlled I one sideonly of the loop and beingoperative subsequent 'to thefstopping ofthemaf-A 8. In a sewing 'machina'the combinationwith stitch-formingmechani'sm of an automatic stopmechan1sm,fanor mall `inoperativeloop-detainer and-spreader or deflect'- -ing one side of the loop :awayfrom the cutterl and being controlled by said stop lmechanism, and avthread-cutter movable inthe path of one side only of said loop. andvbeing supported' and operative independent of the loop-detainer andspreader.

.9; 'In a sewing machine, the combination with ystitch-formingmechanism, of a .takeup device .for the needle-thread, a thread cutter,a loop detainer, 'means for throwing *up device for the needle-thread, athread cutter, a normally inoperative thread-detainer, an automaticstop-mechanism for throwing said detainer into action,'a tension device,and a tension-releasingdevice organizedy and timed to release the threadafter the throwing of the detainerinto action and to retension the sameprior to the completion of the take-up action.4 v

11. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of a normally inoperative loop detainer, an automatic mechanism forthrowing said detainer into action, a thread cutter, a tension device,and a tension-releasing device organized and timed to release the threadmoment-arily subsequent to the throwing 'of the detainer into action andthereafter retension the thread prior to the operation of the cutter.

lao

12. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismembodying a needle and a looper, of atake-up device for t-he needlethread, a` normally inoperative loop detainer,` an automatic stopmechanismv for throwing said loop detalner into actlon,- a tenslonreleasing device organized, and

timed to release and retension the loopfduring the take-up movementafter the throwing of the detainer into action, and a'thread cuttercooperative with said loop detainer;

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismembodying a needle and a looper, of a take-up. device, a

l normally inoperative loop detainer, an automatic stopmechanisnii'jfor" throwing said lloop detainer into action, atension-releasing device organized and timed to release the .loopmomentarily during part of the take-` up movement after the throwing ofthel detainer into action and to retension said` threadbefore the end ofsaid take-up .movement, and a thread cutter Acooperative with said loopdetainer. f v

14:. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, athread gripper, means for reciprocating said gripper in unson with thestitch forming mechanism,

' means for rendering said gripper active after thel firstreciprocation. of the needle at the'restartingcf the stitch-formingmechav nism, whereby the loose endxof-the needle thread is located, atthe underside of the work; and mechanism forrendering the thread gripperinactive.

.15. In a sewlng machine, the combination v with stitch-formingmechanism embodying a needle and a bobbin, of an automatic stopmechanism, a loop detainer and spreader for engaging the needle thread,a bobbin-thread pull-oi, and a thread-cutter operative in the path ofthe bobbin-thread and in the path of one side only of the loop in theneedle thread. Y

16. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formin mechanismembodying a needle and a bobb1n,'of a loopdetainer andl spreader forenga-gin the needle-thread, a bobbin-thread pull-o having means forengaging one side ofthe -loop heldby said `detainer and spreader, and athread-cutter operative in the path of the thread engaged by saidpull-off. e

17. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formin mechanismembodying a needle and a bobb1n,of a loop detainer and A spreader forengaging the needle-thread, a bobbin-thread pull-on' having -a slot forreceivingone sideof the loop held by said detainer and spreader, and athread-cutteroperative in the path of the threads engaged by saidpull-on.

18. In a ysewing machine, the combination with a thread-cutting devicelocated beneath the work-plate of the machine and adjacent to the pointof descent of the needle, of a thread-grippingldevice comprising a platebearing against the underside of said workv plate, and operating meanswhereby ,the .said

threadri in plate is caused to .en age said neegdlghrad and grip thesame bengeath the work-plate duringthe formation of the first stitchmadesubsequent to the threadsevering operation.-

19. In' a sewing machine, the combination I with a thread-cutting devicelocated beneath the work plate of the machine `and adjacent I to thepoint of descent of the needle, of af stop-motion -device wherebygroups-of a pre' determined number of stitches may bei f formed, athread-grippingplate arranged to press the thread -agamst the undersideof said work plate, and operating means where-` by said thread-grippingplate islcaused to engage the severed end of the needle thread and gripthe same beneath the`worlr-platel during the formation of the firststitch of a group, and prevent it from being drawn up through the needlehole of the work-plate. v

20. In a sewing machine, the combination 'l with stitch-formingmechanism including a reciprocating needle carrying van upper 0 Ithreadand a cooperating loop-taker,

thread severing device independent of the stitch-forming mechanism andcomprising loop of upper thread, a movable implement for severing onelimb of 'saidthread-loop,"

an implementfor entering and positioninga and independently acting meanswhereby said implements are differentially actuated,

21. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismembodying a needle and a bobbin,. of an automatic stop l f i V 5mechanism, and a thread cutter coperetive Y Witnesses:

mechanism, a detainer andspreader for the name this specicationjin thepresence of needle thread, :Ln-independent detainer for two subscribing`witnesses, this fth dayfofv j the bobbin thread, controlling connectionsMay 1902.

between one of said detainers and said stop DANIEL MILLS.

withsaid detainers.. WM. A. SmzYoCK, l

In testimony whereof, I have signed my. A J. D. BROWN.

